Flannel fabric is soft, delicate and has good warmth retention. It is a very commonly used material for autumn and winter clothing, home textiles, blankets, pajamas, etc. Because flannel has rich velvet and a smooth surface, certain skills need to be mastered during cutting and processing, otherwise problems such as lint loss, slippage, and inaccurate size may easily occur. This article will provide a comprehensive analysis from the perspectives of fabric characteristics, cutting points, and processing precautions.
1. Main processing characteristics of flannel fabric
Before understanding the cutting method, you must first understand the material properties of flannel, which directly affect the cutting method.
1. There is fluff on the surface and it is easy to slip.
Flannel has fine and even pile, soft to the touch, but the fabric surface slides easily when cutting and needs to be firmly fixed.
2. It has a certain thickness and feels fluffy.
The soft and fluffy structure makes cutting less precise than thin cloth, and the knife edge needs to be sharp enough.
3. The hair has directionality (smooth hair, reverse hair)
The pile direction affects the gloss of the cloth surface, so the direction must be unified when cutting, otherwise the finished product will have a sense of color difference.
4. Easy to shed and dust
Fine lint will be produced during cutting and processing and needs to be kept clean.
5. Not very stretchable but slightly elastic laterally.
It is necessary to avoid stretching the fabric when cutting, otherwise the finished product may become deformed.
2. Precautions for cutting flannel fabric
Flannel cutting requires high precision. The following points can significantly improve the effect of the finished product.
1. The wool must be smoothed, ironed and aligned with the grain before cutting.
Before arranging, pat the pile down to make it go in the same direction.
Keep the fabric grain smooth and avoid deflection
Lightly iron the fabric (not too hot) to prevent wrinkles from affecting the cutting size.
This is a critical step to avoid inconsistent color and gloss in the finished product.
2. Unify the pile direction when cutting
Flannel is more likely to have the problem of "same fabric but different colors". In fact, it is not color difference, but the difference in reflection in the direction of the pile.
When cutting, do:
All slices have the same hair direction
Mark the hair direction when laying out
Large pieces and small pieces should be oriented in the same direction, and the fabric cannot be flipped over at will.
This is the most important cutting specification for making pajamas, blankets, dolls, etc.
3. Use sharp cutting tools to reduce dragging hair
Flannel has thick nap, and dull scissors will:
Recommended to use:
4. The fabric must be fixed firmly enough
Flannel fabric has a slippery surface and needs to be tightened:
Especially when making large items (such as nightgowns and bedding), stability is very important.
5. Reserve a more reasonable seam allowance when cutting
The flannel is thicker, the hems are loose, and the seam allowance should not be too small.
General advice:
If the seam allowance is too small, it can easily cause seams to open or turn unevenly.
6. Avoid pulling the fabric hard
The cloth surface may seem soft, but the fluff and the base fabric are relatively sensitive. Pulling hard during cutting will cause deformation, making the finished product inaccurate in size.
7. Clean up the hair immediately after cutting
After cutting, a large amount of lint debris will be produced, which should be cleaned up in time to avoid affecting the sewing machine or causing contamination of the finished product.
3. Precautions during flannel fabric processing (sewing)
After cutting, the processing steps are equally critical. The following are common experiences in the industry:
1. Choose a large needle gauge and a suitable needle size
The flannel is thicker, so we recommend:
A needle size that is too small may cause stitch skipping or thread breakage.
2. Don’t use too much sewing pressure
Excessive pressure on the presser foot can easily crush the fluff, leaving obvious indentations on the suture area, which affects the appearance.
3. The edges are prone to lint, so it is recommended to wrap or lock the edges.
The fluff at the flannel edge incision is easy to fall off, so it is necessary to:
Perform hemming processing
Or use a hemming machine to lock the edges
Especially home textile products must be bound to prevent hair loss.
4. The arc position needs to be routed slowly
Flannel slides more easily in curved areas, especially cuffs, collars, and the curves of dolls. suggestion:
5. Control the ironing temperature to avoid crushing the lint.
High temperatures can cause the flannel pile to become squashed, harden, and lose its softness.
suggestion:
Low temperature steam blanching
Only iron the base fabric without pressing the suede surface
Use a cloth to avoid burns
4. Frequently Asked Questions in Processing and Tips for Avoiding Pitfalls
Common problems in flannel processing include:
1. There is “color difference” in the finished product
In fact, the directions of the villi are inconsistent. The solution is to unify the hair direction when cutting.
2. The suture area absorbs cotton or is frayed.
The reason is that the pile length is long and the needle size does not match. You can adjust the needle length or use a more suitable presser foot.
3. Severe hair loss at the edges
It needs to be locked or wrapped to avoid chipping during long-term use.
4. The fabric layer slips during sewing
The flannel base fabric is smooth, so it is recommended to add a positioning pin or use a double-feed presser foot.
5. Summary
Flannel fabric requires special attention when cutting and processing:
The direction of the villi must be uniform
Cutting tools should be sharp to avoid pulling lint.
The cloth surface needs to be fixed firmly to avoid slipping
Leave enough seam allowance
The edges are prone to lint and need to be edge-locked
Avoid excessive pressure on the presser foot when sewing
Clean up the lint promptly after cutting
